The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Expand into a multi-sensory mode of awareness by imbibing visions, charts, explosions inexpressible in phrases alone.

Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:30 am

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Spring/Summer 1973, wool knits.

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Spring/Summer 1973, wool knits.

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Spring/Summer 1973, wool knits.

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Spring/Summer 1973, wool knits.

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Spring/Summer 1973, wool knits.

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Spring/Summer 1973, wool knits.

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Fall 1973, a week before my son's birth. Rudi had several loose dresses in this collection, which I wore as maternity dresses. The checkerboard-and-flower dress has been copied countless times.

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Fall 1973, a week before my son's birth. Rudi had several loose dresses in this collection, which I wore as maternity dresses. The green and pink "cross-my-heart" dress was originally designed in the 1960s and proved so popular that it was often included in subsequent lines.

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Fall 1973, a week before my son's birth. Rudi had several loose dresses in this collection, which I wore as maternity dresses.

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1974, the thong, media frenzy as Vidal Sassoon introduces the "thong" haircut at his home.
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Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:31 am

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1974, Rudi with Vidal and thong models. Rudi's tong has since become a generic swimsuit design. (But in 1991 local authorities across America were still outlawing the thong from being worn on their beaches.)

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1974, the thong in its natural habitat.

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Spring 1975, black matte jersey dresses and pants and top connected to sculptured aluminum jewelry made by Christopher Den Blaker. The hat is black chiffon and aluminum.

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Spring 1975, black matte jersey dresses and pants and top connected to sculptured aluminum jewelry made by Christopher Den Blaker. The hat is black chiffon and aluminum.

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Spring 1975, black matte jersey dresses and pants and top connected to sculptured aluminum jewelry made by Christopher Den Blaker. The hat is black chiffon and aluminum.

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Spring 1975, black matte jersey dresses and pants and top connected to sculptured aluminum jewelry made by Christopher Den Blaker. The hat is black chiffon and aluminum.

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1976, Rudi designed the costumes for several ballets by Bella Lewitsky. These are from INSCAPE. (Photograph © Dan Esgro)

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1976, Rudi designed the costumes for several ballets by Bella Lewitsky. These are from INSCAPE. (Photograph © Dan Esgro)

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1976, Rudi designed the costumes for several ballets by Bella Lewitsky. These are from INSCAPE. (Photograph © Dan Esgro)

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1976, intimate apparel collection designed for Lily of France, black-and-white satin boxer jumpsuit and fighter's robe.
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Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:32 am

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1976, intimate apparel collection designed for Lily of France, satin boxer jumpsuit and white satin towel.

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1976, intimate apparel collection designed for Lily of France, jockey shorts for women.

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1976, intimate apparel collection designed for Lily of France, boxer shorts and shirt in men's shirting.

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1981, Rudi with his last collection. (Photograph © Tony Costa)

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1985, the pubikini photographed at Rudi's home a month before his death. (Photograph © Helmut Nevvton)

The Phone Call

Early in 1985 my son Christopher and I were sharing a cup of tea and some huge joke that had both of us laughing hysterically, when the telephone rang. Christopher answered it and, handing it to me, said, "It's Rudi." Still laughing, I said, "Hi, Rudi." I guess the mirth was contagious because Rudi started laughing too and said, "Hi, you'll never guess where I am ... in the hospital. It might be serious." I knew at that moment that he was dying.

The next morning Bill and I went to the hospital. We took him a book, and I picked him a large cymbidium orchid stalk from our garden. When we gave him the flower no one could find a vase for it. So Rudi plopped it into a bedpan urinal and said, "Now that's piss elegant."

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1968, Rudi and the Snow Queen.

The Dream

Shortly before Rudi's death, he called me and said, "I had a dream last night that I was in a graveyard, and I saw my own tombstone. I went up to it, and it said, 'He was always ten years ahead of his time.''' It was hard for me, but I laughed. Rudi said, "I told you that because you're the only person who I knew would laugh."

He was wrong of course. He was always thirty years ahead of his time.

Pas de Deux

Without Rudi I would have been a gifted and innovative model. Without me he would have been an avantgarde designer of genius. We made each other better. We were each other's catalyst. We didn't invent each other -- we played aesthetic pingpong together. One of us would say, or notice, or do something and the other would lob it back across the net. It was fun, it was invigorating, it was a true collaboration, and yes, it was love.

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Rudi Gernreich, 1964

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1958

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Malibu, 1965
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Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:32 am

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Watts Towers, Los Angeles, 1965

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1968

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1969, Photo: Peggy Moffitt

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Unisex, 1970, Photo: Patricia Faure

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1971

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Herrenkleidung, 1972

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Trompe-l'oeil-Jumpsuit

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1976
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Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:33 am

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1976

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1976

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1976

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1975

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Rudi at his house, 1975

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Rudi at his house, 1975

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Rudi at his house, 1975

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Rudi Gernreich at work, Los Angeles, 1966

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New York, 1969

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1964
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Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:34 am

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Big Sur, 1964

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On Mt. Baldy, 1965

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The costume of mirrors, 1969

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1968

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Rudi at his house, 1975

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1971

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1971

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Unisex, 1970 (photography of Patricia Faure)

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1972

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Costumes for Max Factor, 1973
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Re: The Rudi Gernreich Book, by Peggy Moffitt

Postby admin » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:35 am

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1972

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1973

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Drawing of Rudi for Pubikini, 1985

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Otis Parsons Art School, 1985

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1965

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Acknowledgments

We would like to thank the following people for
their support and contributions to the book:
Pauline Annon
Leon Bing
Joan Brookbank
Bureau of Advertising
Kathy and Alan Buster
Otis ~handler
Christopher Claxton
Tony Costa
Jan Curry
Charles Davey
Alex dePaola
Dan Esgro
Exquisite Form Industries, Inc.
David Fahey
Patricia Faure
Lilly Fenichel
The staff ofthe Fashion Institute of Design
and Merchandising
Jane Fluegel
Claudia Frey
Hideki Fujii
Joe Goebel
Ellen Harth
Arthur Imparato
Michael Konze
Bella Lewitsky
Pedro Lisboa
Joel Lobenthal
Marylou Luther
Donn Matus
Darrell Mayabb
Steven Meisel
Carole Mitchell
John Morgan
Bernadine Morris
Helmut Newton
June Newton
Layne Nielson
Bernie Owett
Photo Impact Hollywood
Oreste Pucciani
Peter James Samerjan
Carla Sozzani
Ivy Fischer Stone
Ange'Uka and Benedikt Taschen
Stuart limmons
Priscilla Tucker
Jack Voorzanger
John Weitz
Elizabeth White
Christa Zinner

Note

Rudi Gernreich dated his designs the year and season that they would become available in stores. This book follows his system. However, many of the designs were actually made and photographed in the year prior to the date given -- dates that follow either "Resort" or "Spring/ Summer" were actually designed the year before. Since Rudi Gernreich's designs were often sociological and always dealt with the time and culture in which he lived, this discrepancy should be noted.

Lyrics from "Falling in Love Again" ("ch bin von Kopf bis FuG auf Liebe eingestellt") by Frederick Hollander and Sammy Lerner reprinted by permission.

Copyright@ 1930 Ufaton Verlagsgesellschaft GmbH Berlin-Munchen (Renewed 1957). Copyright © 1930 Famour Music Corporation. Copyright renewed 1957 and 1958 by Famous Music Corporation (Famous Music controller of rights for the United States and Canada).

© for this edition:
1999 Benedikt Taschen Verlag GmbH
Hohenzollernring 53, D-50672 Kaln

The Rudi Gernreich Book was first published in in the United States of America in 1991 by Rizzoli International Publications, Inc. 300 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10010

© 1991 Rizzoli International Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved.

Unless otherwise noted, photographs
© William Claxton
Designed by William Claxton and Peggy Moffitt
German translation: Wolfgang Himmelberg,
Dusseldorf
French translation: Daniel Roche, Paris

Printed in Portugal
ISBN 3-8228-7197-4
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