Part 1 of 2
Chapter 9: Caravanserais Along the Grand Trunk Road in Pakistan: A Central Asian Legacy
by Saifur Rayman Dar
from The Silk Roads: Highways of Culture and Commerce
Edited by Vadime Elisseeff
Published in association with UNESCO
©2000
Originally published Paris UNESCO, 1998
The famous Grand Trunk Road or Shahrah-i-'Azim connecting Calcutta (India) with Peshawar (Pakistan) has been in existence for the last 2,500 years. It has been variously described as "the muse of history,"1 or "a broad scratch across the shoulders of India and Pakistan."2 As the greatest highway in the world,3 it has been compared with the Pilgrim's Way in England, the Appian Way in Rome, and Jada-i-Shah of the Achaemenians.4 The strategic value of this grand highway and the correctness of its alignment have stood the test of time for more than 2,500 years. The rising British power withstood the ferocious war of independence -- the so-called Mutiny of 1857 -- thanks to this well-planned and well-maintained Grand Trunk Road (GTR).5
All along this highway, there once stood forts (qila), fortified towns (qila band shehr), army halting posts (parrao or chhaoni), caravanserais, dak-posts (chowki), milestones (kos minars), stepped wells (baoli) and, of course, shady trees for the convenience of travelers and passers-by. The present chapter deals briefly with a survey of existing remains of these facilities along the part of the GTR which runs through present-day Pakistan. This survey was carried out by the author during the years 1987-1989. The area interested me for three reasons:
(i) It covered one fifth of the total length of the GTR.
(ii) Part of the Silk Road passing through Pakistan also corresponds to the GTR,6 and
(iii) The portion of the GTR passing through Pakistan certainly comprises the most varied and difficult geographical and geological land mass ever encountered by a road builder7 or a merchant, or even a soldier.
History
No one knows when the GTR [Grand Trunk Road] started. Presumably, it came into existence as soon as vehicular traffic started developing as a complement to river communication. There were numerous such major roads connecting different parts of the vast country. Panini, the famous grammarian (500 B.C.), mentions the existence of an Uttarpatha (Northern Road) as well as Dakshinapatha (Southern Road).8 There was also Vannupatha: The Road from Bannu from the Middle Country passing through a desert. Uttarpatha probably was the same as Kautilya’s Haimavatapath running from Vallika (Balkh or Bactria) to Taxila. Kautilya also gives detailed advice as to different types of roads which a king should build. These include the roads linking different national or provincial centers, those leading to military camps and forts, and roads for chariots, elephants, and other animals together with their respective widths and how to maintain them.9 There is a mention of trade routes (water routes and land routes) and it was the duty of the emperor to maintain them and keep them free from harassment by the king’s favorites, robbers, and herds of cattle.10 The width of a royal highway and those within a droonamukna and a sthaniya or a harbor town were fixed at eight dandas or forty-eight feet.11 The Royal Road of the Mauryans at the beginning of the 3rd century B.C., according to Megasthenes, used to run in eight stages from Purushupura (Peshawar) in the northeast to Pataluputra, the Mauryan capital, in the extreme east.12 Sarkar has given details of these eight stages, three of which fell within today’s Pakistan, namely Purushupura to Takshasila, Takshasila to Jhelum, and Jhelum to Alexander’s Altars on the Beas River.13 To help travelers on this Road, directions and distances were indicated with the help of stone pillars fixed every 10 stadia or one kos.14 These correspond to the medieval kos minar or modern milestone. It is quite possible that Chandra Gupta took this idea of a Royal Road from the Jada-i-Shah of the Achaemenians and this, along with other facts, became instrumental in bringing in the Persian influence which we encounter in Mauryan art. There were charitable lodging houses (dharma vasatha) inside the cities for heretical travelers, ascetics, and Brahmins15 but there is no mention of similar facilities alongside the highways. Chandra Gupta’s grandson Asoka improved upon this road system, as he proudly claims in one of his edicts, by planting trees, digging wells every half kos, and building nimisdhayas all along the Royal Road.16 The word nimisdhayas has been variously interpreted17 but is usually translated as rest-house. Sirkar has accepted it to mean a sarai or hostelry.18 If so, this is the earliest reference to halting stations provided on high roads. Still, Asoka was certainly not the originator of such facilities on the highways because he admits that such comforts were provided by previous kings as well. Earlier Kautilya had advised kings to provide sources of water (setu), land routes and waterways (varisthalapatha), groves (arama), and the like.19 Besides, from various jataka stories, we learn that each caravan was led by a caravan leader, the Sarthavaha, who would decide where to make halts for the night showing thereby that there were no fixed and permanent halting stations on the way.20
The introduction of baolis (or vapis) – stepped walls along the high roads in the subcontinent of Pakistan and India – is attributed to Central Asian people. It is believed that in the second century B.C., the Sakas, in their second wave, introduced here two types of wells – Sakandu and Karkandhu – the former being the stepped well whereas the latter was the Persian wheel.21
Kanishka definitely had control over the Uttarapatha which then formed a part of the Silk Road which now, thanks to the Roman Empire, turned towards the sea coast near Barbaricon or Barygaza. The presence of numerous Indian carved ivories and other works of art from western marts discovered at Begram22 near Hadda testify to this. Various Chinese pilgrims from the fifth to the seventh centuries A.D. also used various land routes to enter northern Pakistan – Fa Hien (c. A.D. 400) and Sung Yun (c. A.D. 521) through Udyana (modern Swat), and Hieun Tsang (seventh century A.D.) through Balkh-Taxlia.23 This also shows that these roads must have been quite busy in those times. It was along these routes that Buddhism and the influence of Gandhara art in particular and art of India in general penetrated Central Asia and far into mainland China.24 These Chinese travelers did not mention the existence of proper inns anywhere on this high road though such facilities had existed within the limits of cities since the time of Kautilya.25 Perhaps they never needed to stay in such places, as they normally stayed in Buddhist monasteries which they found on their way.
Even during early Muslim rule in the subcontinent we have very little knowledge as to how the ancient highways worked and what roadside facilities existed for the comforts of travelers prior to the coming of the Mughals. The first specific reference to roadside inns or sarais is found during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughlaq (A.D. 1324-1351) who contracted sarais, one at each stage, between Delhi and his new capital Daultabad.26 From Shams Siraj Afeef, author of Tarikh-li-Firoze Shahi, we also learn that his successor, Firoze Shah Tughlaq (A.D. 1351-1387), built several buildings including 120 hospices and inns, all in Delhi, for the comfort of travelers.27 In these sarais, travelers were allowed to stay and eat free of charge for three days. After this fashion, Mahmud Baiqara (A.D. 1458-1511) built numerous beautiful sarais in Gujrat for the comfort and convenience of travelers.28 Almost simultaneously, Sikander Lodhi (A.D. 1488-1517) of Delhi also built sarais, mosques, madrassahs, and bazaars at all such places where Hindus had their ritual bathing sites.29
But it was Sher Shah Suri who revived the glory of the Royal Road of Chandra Gupta Maurya and at the same time excelled in providing roadside facilities to the travelers to such an extent that today the Grand Trunk Road and Sher Shah Suri have become synonyms. He ensured that the road journeys between all important centers in his empire, particularly between Sonargaon in Bengal and Attock Banares on the Indus River, were safe and comfortable. He realigned the Grand Trunk Road and Sonargaon at Rhotas, widened it, planted fruit-bearing and shady trees at the sides, constructed sarais every 2 kos,30 and introduced kos minars and baolis at more frequent intervals in between two sarais. Along some other roads, Gaur to Oudh and one from Benaras, for example, besides sarais and fruit-bearing trees, he also planted gardens.31 It has been recorded that, in all Sher Shah built 1,700 sarais throughout the length and breadth of his empire. In some history books the total number is exaggerated to 2,500.32 Nadvi has estimated that there were 1,500 sarais between Bengal and the Indus alone. From some history books, we get a fair idea as to how these Suti sarais looked and how they were maintained. Briefly, these were state-run establishments used both as dak-posts and as resting places for travelers. In these sarais, free food and lodging were provided to all, irrespective of their status, creed, or faith.
Islam Shah (Saleem Shah) succeeded his father, Sher Shah Suri, and ruled from A.D. l1545 to 1552. Along the road to Bengal, he added one more sarai in between every two built by his father. Following traditions established by his father, he continued to serve food, both cooked and uncooked, to travelers.33 In Pakistan, the Kachi Sarai at Gujranwala (now demolished except for its mosque) and the so-called Akbari Sarai, adjacent to Jangir’s Mausoleum are attributable to the Suri period, the latter to Islam Shah Suri.34 During the reign of Akbar the Great (A.D. 1558-1605) the system of having halting places (sarais, dak-cowkis, and baolis) along important roads was further developed and perfected. Not only did the emperor himself build numerous new sarais at different locations, but his courtiers followed suit.35
Jahangir (A.D. 1605-1628), in particular, issued orders that the property of all such persons who die without issue be spent on the construction of mosques and sarais, the digging of wells and tanks, and the repairing of bridges. Simultaneously he ordered the landlords of all such far-off places where roads were not safe, to construct sarais and mosques and dig wells so that people were encouraged to settle near these places. Jahangiri sarais are said to have existed eight kos apart from one another. Jahangir ordered these sarais to be built of stone and burnt brick (pakkalpukhta sarais) and not of mud (kacha sarais). In each of his sarais there were proper baths and tanks of fresh water and regular attendants. Mulberry and other broad-leaved trees were planted at various halting stations between Lahore and Agra.36 Jahangiri kos minars -- such as one each at Manhiala near Jallo and at Shahu Garhi in Lahore -- were between twenty and thirty feet high. The emperor's courtiers too built rabats.37 Besides repairing the old bridges, Jahangir also constructed several new ones over all such rivers and nullahs which came in the way of his highways.38 On the highway leading to Kashmir, he built permanent houses at different stages so that he need not carry tentage with them.39
Shah Jahan's period (1628-1658) is renowned for its building activities. The emperor busied himself with constructing and embellishing royal buildings in Agra, Delhi, and Lahore. His courtiers followed suit.4o Several of his nobles, such as Wazir Khan, are renowned for patronizing building activities. The construction of roads and sarais did not lag behind, though these never had the same attention they received from Jahangir. The bridge of Shah Daula on Nullah Deg on the way from Lahore to Eminabad is definitely a construction from Shah Jahan's period.41 Wazir Khan sarai (now extinct) was built near his grand public hamam inside Delhi Gate. Lahore was also constructed during this period.
Despite this increased activity, the road between Lahore and Kabulthe most important of all highways in ancient India-never had enough sarais at the desired places. Consequently, travelers had to contend with many difficulties while traveling on this section. It was Aurangzeb Alamgir (1659-1707) who realized this. He ordered that, in all parts where there were no sarais and rabats, permanent (pukhta) and commodious sarais should be constructed at government expense. Each new sarai was required to comprise a bazar, a mosque, a well, and a hamam. Older sarais were equally properly attended to and were soon repaired whenever necessary. 42 Some of his noblemen, such as Shaista Khan also built new sarais.43 Khan-i-Khanan, a Wazir of Shah Alam Bahadur (1707-1712) had ordered that each city must have a sarai, a mosque, and a hospice constructed in his name.44 He even despatched funds for that purpose. Amirud Din Sambhli, a courtier of Muhammad Shah (1719-1748), built a beautiful sarai in Sambhal.45 Nawab Asif Jah, during the reign of the same king, built a caravanserai and bridge in Deccan.46 Hussain Ali Khan of Barha built a sarai and a bridge in his locality.47
After the death of Muhammad Shah in A.D. 1748, the Punjab suffered a severe political setback. Central power declined and provincial Subedars of Lahore fought incessantly against invading Durranies and Marathas and the rising power of the Sikhs. Roadways were no longer safe and sarais were unattended to. In A.D. 1799, the Punjab was entirely taken over by the Sikhs. Their rule is a story of inverse development as far as architectural activities are concerned. In a state of political anarchy that characterized most of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the highways became the wounded arteries of national life which drained the blood from the economic body of the country. I do not know if ever during this anarchical period a new sarai was constructed or orders were given to repair the old ones.
When the British occupied the Punjab in 1849, they did not fail to realize that it had always been the gateway to the whole of the subcontinent, and that the Grand Trunk Road was of special significance to this area in particular and to the whole subcontinent in genera1.48 If the danger from the northwest was to be checked and local reserves of fighting men were to be tapped properly to reinforce the British army, this highway must be kept in first-rate condition and further improved. The first twenty-seven years of their reign, therefore, were spent in realigning this highway, making it metaled, constructing bridges, causeways and culverts wherever needed, and building their own sarais. It has been said that the terrain as followed by this highway in the Punjab is perhaps the most difficult and varied ever met by a road-builder. The story of the reconstruction of this highway has been graphically told by K.M. Sarkar in the work quoted above. The new road thus reconstructed hardly differed from the original alignment of the Mughal Highway. More often than not, it followed the former alignment, while at other places it ran parallel to it. Almost all old stations on the GTR such as Sarai Kachi (Gujranwala), Gakharr Cheema, Wazirabad, Gujrat, Kharian, Sarai Alamgir, Rewat, Margalla, Sarai Kala, Sarai Hasanabdal, Begum-ki-Sarai, and Peshawar, still occupy strategic positions on the new GTR. A few others such as Sarai Sheikhan, Eminabad, Khawaspura, Rohtas, Sarai Sultan, Sir Jalal, and Sarai Pukka are not far from it. One has to read the account of the Mughal Highway as given by William Finch49 and compare it with the British Highway as rebuilt from 1849 to 188650 and see how, right from the beginning, the route from Kabul to Peshawar and from Peshawar to Lahore, from most ancient to modern times, has practically never changed. The neywork of the routes in medieval India and Pakistan and the Mughal period and even today passed the cities built during the Sultanate period, bearing in mind the course of ancient routes. If something has changed, it is the institutions of sarais. Better roads, improved means of communications, better transport facilities, lack of time available to individuals, and fast-moving life obliterated the need for caravans to move in groups, the necessity of having night stopovers on the way, short halts for shade under fruit-bearing trees or beside stepped wells, and for taking direction and distances from huge kos minars on the way. The course of the modern GTR has shifted slightly towards the south here and there because traveling in the cool shade of the Himalayan foothills is no longer necessary.
This is the reason why all old sarais, baolis, kos minars, and even ancient bridges have become derelict and are vanishing quickly. It is time for the department concerned to step forward and save these historical landmarks.
Features and Functions of Mughal Sarais
Thus, although the initial alignment of the present-day GTR in Pakistan may date back to a very remote age, provision of various kinds of facilities for travelers on this highway started quite late. We have seen how our information on the subject prior to the coming of the Mughals in the sixteenth century AD. is scanty and incomplete. However, with the coming of the Mughals, the vista of our information, visual and literary, broadens considerably. We now have a well-established empire, with emperors eager to provide their empire with a solid foundation based on a well-organized road system, safe and quick communication, and safe and comfortable road journeys for armies, caravans, and individuals. We now have sufficient, though still not ample, information on how the system worked. Besides, we still have sufficient structural remains scattered allover the country to assist us in visualizing the entire system and interpreting its various functions. Here is a brief account of the system from A.D. 1526 to 1886.
Transport system
To begin with, it should be clear that from the Mauryan to the Mughal periods, traveling within the country, both for local people as well as foreigners, was regulated and controlled through a system of passports (mudra) duly issued and sealed by the Superintendent of Passports (Mudradhyaksha). At various points, there were inspection houses manned by the Superintendent of Meadows (Vivitadhyaksha) who would examine the traveling document of each party passing through that post. What these Inspection Houses looked like, we have no idea. 51
Suri sarais
The first clear picture of a sarai-as an institution and a building -- emerges during the reign of Sher Shah Suri and his son Salim (Islam) Shah Suri (A.D. 1539-1552). Suri sarais were built a distance of two kos apart with stepped wells (baolis, vapis, van or vao) and kos minars at more frequent intervals between every two sarais. Structurally, a sarai comprises a space, invariably a square space, enclosed by a rampart with one gateway called darwazah. As these ramparts were built with sun-dried bricks, they were referred to in later years as kacha sarais and compared to pakka or pukhta sarais of the Mughal period which were built of burnt bricks or stone blocks. Each sarai had rows of cells (khanaha) on all four sides. There were special rooms, one in each corner, and invariably in the center of each wall as well. These were called Khanaha-i-Padshahi, i.e., King's House or Government House reserved for state personnel on the move. There were separate khanaha or cells for Muslims and non-Muslims -- each served by attendants of their respective faiths. Inside each sarai there was a mosque and a well. Revenue-free land (madad-i-maash) was attached to each sarai to meet the salaries of the staff and other contingent expenditure. 52
The sarai acted both as a wayside inn for travelers and an official dak-chowki. Each sarai was run by an official called Shahna or Shiqdar with a number of caretakers (nigehban or chaukidar) to assist him. There was an imam of the mosque and a muezzin to call to prayer. Hot and cold water, together with bed-steads (charpai), edibles (khurdanz), and grain and fodder for the horses (dana-i-asp) were provided by the Government (Sarkar) free of charge. A physician was stationed at every sarai to look after the health of the people of the locality. Bakers were also settled in the sarais.53
Although there are many sarais attributed to the Suri period, only one definite Suri sarai of the type described above is reported in Pakistan. It was in Gujranwala and was called Kachi Sarai. It was extant until the 1950s but has since vanished except for its mosque. The model laid down by the Suri kings was never forgotten by later rulers. What we can observe in later period sarais is only an improved reflection of the prototype of Suri sarais.
Rabats, sarais, and dak-chowkis
According to Arthur Upham Pope, rabats were fortified frontier posts which, during the early Islamic period, were set up as a necessary defense against hostile non-Muslim peoples.54
While discussing the recently discovered Ghaurid period Mausoleum of Khaliq Wali at Khati Chour, Holy Edwards, an American scholar, pronounced this unique fortress-like mausoleum as being a rabat in its original conception. She has described a rabat as a small military outpost on the frontier of a kingdom or state that also accommodates small groups of travelers. If we accept this definition, we have this exceptional example in Pakistan.
Many scholars, on the other hand, regard rabat and sarai as one and the same thing. But there is a minute difference between the two. In Ma'sr-ul-Umara, we learn that Shaikh Farid Murtaza Khan Bukhari, a courtier of Jahangir, built several rabats and sarais. 56 Maulana Nadvi57 has made it clear that sarais were built alongside the highways for temporary stopovers by travelers whereas rabats and khanqahs (hospices) were built inside cities where people could stay for a longer period. These can be considered as guesthouses (mehman khana) or some type of hostelry-although they have never been mentioned under this title.
The Sarais of Sher Shah served both as sarais and dak-chowki and for that purpose two horses were kept in every sarai to convey news to the next station. 58 However, some scholars regard caravanserais as distinct from sarais-cum-dak-chowkis. The former concept developed in Pakistan, northern India, and Gujrat only in the fifteenth century. Caravanserais were invariably private establishments or created by endowments, whereas dak-chowkis were state properties. The dak-post-cum-sarai were usually smaller in size than the sarais. Postal messengers and noblemen (Mirzas) were not supposed to stay in caravanserais which were usually reserved for middle-class people, businessmen, and merchants. In caravanserais, again, the clients were charged moderately but not so in sarais-cum-dak-posts. Caravanserais in cities were usually established by endowments by individuals, organizations, and even by governments but gradually these tended to become rent-yielding properties.
Purpose
The Mughal rulers took upon themselves the responsibility of building roads and bridges and providing halting stations along the way because such arrangements were beneficial militarily, economically, and socially. An efficient road system, with well-supplied halting stations, secure highways, and well-protected fortified places -- as these sarais always were-guaranteed easy passage for armies to guard their frontiers. It also encouraged the caravans and merchants to move along with their valuable merchandise from one place to another with a feeling of security. Establishment of sarais also provided people of the area with ample opportunities for employment and services. Major cities and towns subsequently developed around many sarais built in isolated places. Of course, in times of war and invasion, the villages and cities located on more frequented routes suffered a lot too. Sarais and dak-chowkis helped develop an efficient system of postal communication. Buildings which were just dak-chowkis were also constructed at certain places. One such dak-post, recently repaired under the supervision of the author, can be seen next to the roadside near Wazirbad. The sarais with their monumental gateways, baolis with their towering pavilions, and kos minars with cylindrical masonry columns, 20-30 feet high, guided travelers and caravans to their destinations and helped them cover long distances. Resting places and road-markers such as sarais, kos minars, and baolis were actually an outcome of the development of a centralized state.
Types
A cursory classification of existing remains of known caravanserais along the GTR from Peshawar to Delhi reveal at least five types according to their architectural features and functions:
The Fort-cum-Sarai
Every sarai was basically fortified in a sense that its gates or gate were closed at night and that its four wells usually had no other outlets except the main gate or gates. The earliest type we come across had only one gateway and four solid cornered bastions. Sarai Damdama, Mathura, of the sixteenth century but of pre-Mughal days, with solid pentagonal bastions, is one such example. No such example has survived in Pakistan. The Gakhar period Sarai Rewat, usually called Reway Fort near Rawalpindi can perhaps be classified in this category because it has merlons on the walls, high enough to conceal a soldier behind each, and rows of single cells below without having a veranda in front of each cell as is usual in all sarais. But it is unique in that it has three gates instead of one as in the pre-Mughal era.
The Wayside Sarai
This was perhaps the most common type seen along the roadsides running between big cities or urban centres. It differs from the fort-cum-sarai in two respects. It always had two gateways and usually a few larger rooms (Khanaha-i-Padshahi) in the four corners with side walls. The Akbar period sarai at Chapperghat, south of Kanauj,59 Sarai Nur Mahal in India, Begum-ki-Sarai (of the Akbar or Jahangir period, though with a single gateway), and Sarai Kharbuza Qahangir period) near Rawalpindi, in Pakistan, are good examples. In such sarais, there was usually a bazar, a mosque, and a well-all within the four walls of the sarai.
The town-sarai or rabat
This type of sarai was built as an integral part of an urban center. The Agra Gate Sarai at Fatehpur Sikri and Sarai Ekdilabad, District of Etawa (Shah Jahan period) in India are perhaps good examples. The Sarai Wazir Khan adjoining Delhi Gate in Lahore60 with its colossal public hamam is one example in Pakistan. But its full plan is difficult to exhume today owing to the erection of modern buildings on the site. At least one scholar has interpreted the original building of Khaliq Wali Tomb at Khati Chaur as a rabat with the meaning of a military border post-cumsarai (see above: rabat-sarai and dak-chowkis).
The custom-clearing sarai/sarai with double compound
The Badarpur Sarai near Delhi, with its two compounds, joined together through a common gateway, is unique. Here, entry to the bigger sarai would be through its northern gate, where the traveler waited before being allowed to pass into the adjoining smaller sarai through the connecting door and went out through the southern gate of the smaller sarai after his documents had been checked and clearance obtained. No such type has ever survived in Pakistan.
The mausoleum-cum-garden sarai
This type comprises sarais attached to a garden or mausoleum. The Arab sarai attached to Humayan's tomb in Delhi and the so-called Akbari Sarai attached to Dilamiz Garden (later the Jahangir's Mausoleum) at Shahdara near Lahore are such examples. The mosque of Sarai Akbari certainly belongs to the Suri period, though its rows of cells and three gates belong to the Shah Jahan period. One of the gates provides access to the mausoleum-garden of Jahangir.
The farood gah or royal halting station
Though this is not a typical caravanserai, it belongs to that category because it also served as a temporary halting station, though only for royalty. A typical example of such a halting station is the Wah Garden together with its hamam and an attached forood gah or resting-house. The Hiran Minar near Shaikhupura together with its royal residence, a vast tank and double story pavilion61 can also be regarded as such though it provided a temporary halt for the emperor and his entourage but for an altogether different purpose, namely hunting, shooting, and recreation.
Gateways
The earliest sarai of the Suri period, or even earlier, had only one gateway in one of its four walls. This type continued during the Akbar period as shown by the Arab Sarai at Delhi and Begum-i-Sarai at Attock with only one entrance gate. Normally, Mughal period sarais had two monumental gateways-one located in front of the other in two walls facing each other. Akbari Sarai at Shahdara, Sarai Kharbuza near Rawalpindi, and Pakka Sarai near Gujar Khan are such examples. Two nearer examples in the Indian Punjab are the Jahangir period sarai at Fatehbad62 and another at Doraha.63 A gateway seldom had a fixed size in relation to the size of the sarai itself. It was usually built high and monumental so that it was visible even at a distance, thereby serving the same purpose as that of a kos minar. As seen in the case of Fatehabad and Ooraha Sarais, the gateways were invariably decorated with variegated designs set in a mosaic of glazed tiles. Unfortunately, no such decoration has survived in any of the sarais recorded in Pakistan. These gateways were often two stories with enough rooms to accommodate the shiqdar or shahna and nigehbanl chowkidar. See for example the gateways of Akbari Sarai, Sarai Pakka, and Sarai Sheikhan. The main gateway of Sarai Rewat in its eastern wall looks as if it has two storeys but actually it is a single-storey structure without an elaborate system of attached rooms.
Shapes.
As a rule, all sarais were square in shape. However, in certain cases and depending on the lie of the ground, one side was slightly larger than the other. In Pakistan, Sarai Kharbuza (420' x 420'), Begum-ki-Sarai (323' x 323'), and Sarai Pakka (300 x 300 paces) are examples of perfect squares. The Gakkhar period sarai at Rewat (323.6' x 321.6') and Sarai Sultan (560' x 540') are almost square. Sarai Akbari at Shahdara (797' x 610') is oblongish, whereas Sarai Kala near Taxila is a perfect rectangle (137.5' x 375') with a single (?) gate in its eastern wall. This shape was by choice and not dictated by the terrain. The only other example of a perfect rectangle that has come to my knowledge so far is Raja-ki-Sarai (Agra) with its two gateways set in two shorter walls and one in a longer wall. The gateway of Sarai Kala has been set in one of the long walls. On the Ferozepur Road, near the Central Jail, there used to be a Jahangir period sarai called Sarai Gola Wala,64 which is reported to have been octagonal in layout like some Persian sarais.65 The Sarai Agra Oarwaza ar Fatehput Sikri is irregular in shape.
Disposition of Cells
Inside a sarai, living quarters comprised cells which were invariably of uniform size in all four walls. In front of each cell there was usually a veranda to provide protection from sun and rain as well as to admit indirect light into the cells. No window or ventilator was allowed inside the cell. Sarai Rewat is the exception where there is no veranda in front of the cells. The corner rooms (octagonal or round) were usually set inside the corner bastions and were always larger than the normal cells. These were used by dignitaries or even used as stores. Like ordinary cells, corner rooms too were not provided with a window or ventilator. However, the corner rooms of the Begum-ki-Sarai are exceptions to this rule. Here, all four corner rooms have openings. The openings in two octagonal corner bastions along the western wall provide a beautiful view of the mighty Indus river. The corner rooms of this sarai are the most elaborate. Each is a suite of one large elliptical hall with a veranda in front, an octagonal room at the back, two side rooms, and a set of two staircases leading to the roof We see the comparable arrangement at Sarai Rewat and Sarai Kharbuza. Only Sarai Sultan near Rohtas has a set of larger rooms in the center of the eastern and western walls like the ones in Ooraha Sarai already quoted. Sometimes, in one of the corner rooms, a Turkish hamam was installed such as in Ooraha Sarai just referred to. These hamams inside a sarai were first introduced by Jahangir and copied by some later rulers. But no sarai with a hamam has been reported in Pakistan. Only Oamdama Sarai, Mathura, had solid pentagonal corner towers. All others are either octagonal or circular and are always hollow. The corner tower rooms at Akbari Sarai are square with chambered corners from within and each has a set of two small adjoining oblong rooms. Sarai Kharbuza near Taxila, on the other hand, has two octagonal rooms one set behind the other in each corner. The back room is actually a corner bastion protruding outside the walls of the sarai.
Mosque, bazar, and well inside a Sarai
If there were two gates to a sarai, there was often a bazar in the center of each sarai running from gate to gate.66 It probably comprised of shops of makeshift materials as no permanent structure has ever been discovered inside a sarai. In Pakistan, probably, the Sarai Rewat, Serai Kharbuze, Akbari Sarai at Shahdara, and Sarai Sultan, Rohtas had this arrangement. Elsewhere only at Agra Gate Sarai, Fatehpur Sikri was there a row of permanent shops, but then these were along the outer facade of the sarai and not inside it.67
Somewhere in the open courtyard, a mosque was provided for the faithful such as in Pakka Sarai, Begum-ki-Sarai,68 Sultan Sarai, and Sarai Kharbuza. At times, such a mosque was constructed in the middle of the western wall of the Sarai-as in Akbari Sarai, Sarai Rewat, and Sarai Kala. At the last site, it is slightly off-center. The mosques inside the sarais ranged from a single-domed chamber (as in Sarai Pakka and Sarai Kharbuza) to imposing three-domed structures as seen in Sarai Akbari and Sarai Rewat. Sarai Pakka is unique in that it originally contained two mosques, one for men in the courtyard (it was intact until 1968 when I studied it for the first time but has now been rebuilt completely) and another for women in the western wall (now in complete ruins). Except in the case of sarais close to urban centers, mosques were excluded from the four walls of a sarai such as Chapperghat Sarai.
Invariably, close to the mosques inside the sarai was a burnt-brick well such as in Pakka Sarai, Sarai Sheikhan, Sarai Kharbuza, and Sultan Sarai. Wells catering for the needs of Begum-ki-Sarai, Akbari Sarai, and Sarai Rewat can be found outside the four walls of the sarais proper. The well inside Sarai Kharbuza was in the form of a baoli or vao. As in case of Sarai Sultan and Sarai Pakka, baolis are sometimes found immediately outside a sarai.